NATURAL FRAGRANCES FOR FORMULATING COSMETICS

Natural fragrances in cosmetics – what are they and how can we use them in formulating. If you’re a cosmetic lover who wants to know more about natural scents or how to use them in cosmetic formulation, keep on reading.

When we started formulating cosmetics, we initially used essential oils as a basic fragrance. We soon found out that we also want to use new fragrances that scent products. Choosing a fragrance is a much more challenging process than it may seem at first glance – every person is different, as is his or her favourite scent. There is no ideal fragrance, but our goal is to perfect the product’s scent and stimulate positive emotions during use of that product.

If we want to create a sophisticated and pleasant natural fragrance, we need to choose well from a whole range of ingredients that complement each other and mix well with other notes. The process of creating a new fragrance involves a touch of creativity and experimentation, as natural fragrances are like an art. In order to make a natural product, we must first know which ingredients are classified as natural fragrances.

NARAVNE DIŠAVE ZA FORMULIRANJE KOZMETIKE

Naravne dišave v kozmetiki – kaj so in kako jih lahko uporabimo pri izdelavi kozmetičnih izdelkov. Če si ljubitelj kozmetike ali izdeluješ kozmetične izdelke in želiš vedeti več o naravnih dišavah, beri naprej.

Ko sva začeli s formuliranjem kozmetike, sva kot osnovno dišavo sprva uporabljali eterična olja. Kmalu sva ugotovili, da želiva uporabiti tudi nove dišave in spoznati še druge možnosti, ki odišavijo izdelke. Izbira dišave je veliko zahtevnejši proces kot se morda zdi na prvi pogled – vsak človek je drugačen, prav tako njegov okus in vonj. Popolna dišava ne obstaja, ampak naš cilj je, da vonj izpopolni izdelek ter med uporabo vzpodbudi pozitivna čustva.

Če želimo ustvariti prefinjeno in prijetno naravno dišavo, moramo dobro izbrati med celo paleto sestavin, ki se med seboj dopolnjujejo ter dobro zmešajo z drugimi notami. Proces kreacije nove dišave zajema kanček ustvarjalnosti in eksperimentiranja, saj so naravne dišave prava umetnost. Da bi naredili naravni izdelek pa moramo najprej vedeti, katere sestavine se uvrščajo med naravne dišave.

WHAT ARE NATURAL FRAGRANCES?

The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) only allows fragrances marked as “natural” to contain fragrance ingredients that correspond to the terms in the International Organization for Standardization’s ISO 9235:1997 which defines natural aromatic raw materials as being physically obtained from plants using distillation, expression and extraction.

Synthetically reconstituted essential oils, synthetic nature-identical ingredients and intentionally chemically modified natural raw materials cannot be used in fragrance compounds that are described as being natural. The Natural Products Association goes one step further to not permit the use of petrochemical solvents in the extraction process, so concretes and absolutes made using hexane are not permitted. Natural fragrances are complex compositions of natural aromatic raw materials such as essential oils, fractions of essential oils, isolates, exudates such as resins, distillates, extracts and volatile concentrates. (1)

NATURAL FRAGRANCES

-Essential oils

-Fractions of essential oils

-Isolate

-Exudates such as resins, distillates,

-Extracts and volatile concentrates.

Natural fragrances have greater perceived value as they are believed to be greener, more sustainable, safer and more healthful and therapeutic. Some of these consumer perceptions are not necessarily accurate, but they drive demand for naturals. Natural fragrances are generally made from ingredients harvested from sustainably grown plants rather than from petrochemicals. (1)

KAJ SO NARAVNE DIŠAVE?

Dišave v kozmetični industriji zajemajo različne metode in tehnike, v tem blogu se bomo osredotočili na uporabo naravnih dišav, ki pridobivajo na priljubljenosti, saj mnogi potrošniki menijo, da so bolj zelene in bolj trajnostne. Pogosto jih dojemajo kot varnejše, bolj zdrave in terapevtske. Nekatera od teh zaznav potrošnikov niso nujno točna, vendar spodbujajo povpraševanje po naravnih izdelkih. Naravne dišave so kompleksne sestave naravnih aromatičnih surovin, kot so eterična olja, frakcije eteričnih olj, izolati, eksudati, kot so smole, destilati, ekstrakti in hlapni koncentrati.

Naravne dišave so običajno narejene iz sestavin, pridelanih iz trajnostno gojenih rastlin, in ne iz petrokemijskih izdelkov (iz nafte in zemeljskega plina). Mednarodno združenje za dišave (IFRA) dovoljuje samo dišave, označene kot “naravne”, da vsebujejo sestavine dišav, ki ustrezajo izrazom, določenim v ISO 9235:1997, ki opredeljuje naravne aromatične surovine kot fizično pridobljene iz rastlin z destilacijo, iztisnjenjem in ekstrakcijo. Sintetično rekonstituirana eterična olja, sintetično naravno enake sestavine in namerno kemično spremenjene naravne surovine ni mogoče uporabiti v naravnih dišavah.

Naravne dišave:

-Eterična olja in njihove frakcije,

-smole,

-hidrolati,

-ekstrakti in

-hlapni koncentrati.

HOW TO USE NATURAL SCENTS IN YOUR PRODUCT?

We must know our ingredients very well and also the supplier’s products (if you do not have your own oils or extracts). We both buy products from Tovarna organika, Natural Loti and Aroma Zone, we also use top quality NHR essential oils. We use only cold-pressed oils, extracts and organic essential oils that are suitable to use on the skin (not scented artificial essential oils). We also like essential oils and natural fragrances from Aroma Zone (French online store).

Cosmetic products can be scented using oils, extracts and essential oils. Sensitive vegetable oils such as cranberry oil and essential oils are added to the cold phase, and base oils such as almond oil can be heated. In addition to scent, fragrances can also affect color, e.g. sea buckthorn oil adds a characteristic yellow color to the product. The smell and appearance of the product depends on the ingredients we use.

Example: Let’s say we want to make a nourishing balm that smells like coconut. We can add a natural coconut fragrance to it (we buy from Aroma Zone) and use coconut oil as a base oil. If we want e.g. scent of immortelle in anti age creams, use immortelle extract, immortelle essential oil, natural fragrance, etc. Formulating takes time, so most definitely you will need some time to create your perfect scented product. If you want to know more about natural scents, let us know and we will share more about this topic.

What is your favorite natural fragrance and which one will you add in your next cosmetic product? Let us know in the comments.

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2natureholics

2 Natureholics

KAKO UPORABITI NARAVNE DIŠAVE V SVOJIH PRODUKTIH?

Najprej moramo dobro poznati izdelke in dobaviteljevo prakso (če nimate svojih olj oz. ekstraktov). Midve kupujeva izdelke pri Tovarni organiki, Natural Loti in Aroma Zone, uporabljava tudi vrhunska NHR eterična olja. Uporabljava samo hladno stiskana rastlinska olja, macerate in ekološka eterična olja, ki so primerna za uporabo na koži (ne odišavljenih umetnih eteričnih olj). Zelo sva navdušeni tudi nad eteriko in naravnimi dišavami od Aroma Zone (francoska spletna trgovina).

Izdelke lahko odišavite z uporabo rastlinskih olj, maceratov, ekstraktov ter eteričnih olj. Občutljiva rastlinska olja in eterična olja dodajamo v hladno fazo, osnovna olja pa lahko segrevamo. Poleg vonja, pa lahko dišave vplivajo tudi na barvo, npr. olje plodov rakitovca doda izdelku značilno rumeno barvo. Od sestavin, ki jih bomo uporabili, je odvisno kakšna bosta vonj in izgled izdelka.

Primer: Recimo, da želimo izdelati mazilo, ki ima vonj po kokosu. Dodamo mu lahko naravno dišavo kokosa (midve kupujeva pri Aroma Zone) in uporabimo kokosovo olje kot osnovno olje. Če želimo npr. vonj smilja v anti age kremah, uporabimo macerat iz smilja, eterično olje smilja, naravno dišavo, ipd. Seveda formuliranje popolno odišavljenega izdelka, zajema veliko več časa in poskusov, da boste razvili takšen izdelek kot ga želite.

Katera je tvoja najljubša naravna dišava in katero boš ti dodal/a v svojem naslednjem kozmetičnem izdelku? Zaupaj nama v komentar.

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